With the combination of 32 linear waves, a deep water breaking wave was
successfully obtained in laboratory conditions. Each linear wave had a unique frequency and phase shift, allowing all 32 waves to reach peak amplitude at the same time and place.
The deep water breaking wave was specified to have a maximum amplitude at 1.5 meters from the mean paddle position, and 10 seconds after the wave train began. By solving the dispersion equation for all 32 waves, the paddle displacement signal for each individual linear wave was superimposed into a single function, creating the complete paddle displacement signal.
It was necessary to attempt several frequency bands for the waves because certain relationships showed too much destructive interferance prior to determined breaking. This interferance caused a disapation in energy before the intended location, resulting in a lesser wave.
Special attention was paid to the amplitudes of each individual wave in the system, as to avoid premature breaking. After many trials, it was discovered that the relationship A*k=linear (Wu) provided the best breaking scenario. This relationship specifies that the amplitude multiplied by the wave number (k) will have a linear trend.
The Amplitude of the entire displacement regime was determined by trial and error with an adjustable scaling factor. It was noted that allowing the flume to settle for at least 60 seconds after a trial reduced noticable turbulent interference. The final amplitude scale factor provided the steepest wave superposition without any pre-breaking (capillary or spill).
Visual results follow: |