We are developing a fundamental
understanding of surface wave and current interactions in
the estuarine and coastal/marine environments. In the past
we have developed methods to generate and detect
three-dimensional breaking waves and wave-current
interaction in the laboratory. The overall goal is to
understand the role of shear currents on wave evolution and
breaking and develop a temporal form of physics-based
parametrization of momentum, heat, and humidity fluxe s across wave boundary layer processes for the coupled atmosphere-ocean models. In the last two decades, tremendous progress has been made to use imaging techniques like an in-situ ethernet-based (CBLAST-LIVE) and a real time self-contained video system (CBLAST-EYE) for observing air-sea surface wave characteristics at the Air-Sea Interaction Tower (ASIT) off the south shore of Martha’s Vineyard. In addition, observations of subsurface wave and current have been measured. The project is one component of the Coupled Boundary Layers, Air-Sea Interaction Experiment in Low to Moderate Winds (CBLAST-LOW). ![]() ![]() 3D and Wave-current induced breaking waves Processes of air-sea interactions Observatory for air-sea interactions An image taken from the ASIT
during the experiments is shown here. Using a digital
photogrammetry processing technique, the whitecapping area
can be estimated from the rectified ortho-image and
correlated with the recorded wind speed. In addition, the
following ortho-image shows a developing Langmuir streak
under a wind speed of approximately 5 m/s. Time series of
whitecapping areas other concurrent measurements are
correlated to obtain breaking-wave induced parametrization
of momentum, heat, and humidity fluxes momentum, heat, and
humidity fluxes. ![]() Stereo-imaging of a 3D breaking wave 3D view of the processed image Virtual wave gauge array Efficient and accurate modeling of surface wave motions plays an important role in many coastal and ocean. For several decades, a great deal of efforts has been paid to develop unified models that can effectively predict water wave propagation with varying degree of dispersive and nonlinear effects. Our research group is focusing on develop an efficient and accurate non-hydrostatic modeling frame to predict large scale surface wave dynamics. Overall the goal is to develop full non-hydrostatic model using a small number of vertical layers (two ~ five layers) to simulate nearshore wave transformation including shoaling, dispersion, refraction, and diffraction phenomena. Furthermore we are also working on developing a non-hydrostatic model that can examine deep-water wave-wave interactions including slowly modulated and rapidly evolving wave processes leading to the formation of freak waves. ![]() ![]() The Apostle Islands lakeshore in Lake Superior is a world-class destination for sea kayaking, luring paddlers with scenic wilderness, ancient geology and a rich cultural history. Some of the most popular attractions are the sea caves located at several spots around the archipelago. The water environment in the Apostle Islands is undoubtedly quite complex and dynamic due to the interactions of winds, currents, and the surrounding 22 islands at the site. Waves generated in Lake Superior can diffract and reflect when they encounter the islands and may combine to form extreme waves or freak waves in a process known as geometric focusing. This process is applied to determine local regions of energetic wave fields for use in wave power generation around the world. In addition, significant energy and momentum transfers can occur during the wave and current interaction, yielding extreme waves that can affect the navigation and kayakers' safety. To date information of wave climate in Lake Superior is very little. Currently we are developing an in-situ Real-Time Wave Observation System (RTWOS) that can be accessed through any portable wireless device. Furthermore a real-time INFOS-Apostle is currently developed to provide real-time wave climate in the Apostle Islands. Outreach efforts (see Wisconsin State Journal Article has been continuously paid to address the community and society needs. An energy efficient push button Real-Time Wave Kiosk System (RTWKS) is also designed, built, and installed at the Meyers Beach, WI, where most kayakers/boaters enter water in Lake Superior. The benefit of providing certain conditions in favor of the occurrence of dangerous extreme waves/freak waves is critical for the warning kayakers and boaters in Great Lakes. Recent articles related to the freak waves and RTWOS can be found at UWMadScience and Sea Grant News. ![]() ![]() Apostle Islands in Lake Superior Real-time wave buoy and nowcast/forecast modeling 15 feet freak wave Meteotsunamis can pose a serious threat to the Great Lakes coast, owing to the lake’s characteristics that facilitate the formation of destructive meteotsunamis including frequent fast-moving storm fronts, resonance-promoting bathymetry, and harbors to finally amplify the wave. The most vivid historical meteotsunami on record in the Lake Michigan occurred in 1954, when a squall line-induced longwave wave struck Chicago in Lake Michigan. The coast was inundated up to 50 meters inland and unexpectedly swept many fishermen off of the Montrose Harbor piers, killing seven. While the threat of meteotsunamis in Lake Michigan has been recognized, to date no infrastructure for detecting and warning of a pending meteotsunami disaster is available. Recently the potential hot spots in Lake Michigan that can be threatened by meteotsunamis has been identified and characterized. Meteotsunamis have also observed in Lake Superior and Lake Erie. In collaboration researchers in Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory and Prairie Research Institute at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, we are implementing an observation network system to better understand the occurrence of meterotsunamis. An operational meteotsunami forecasting and warning system is also being developed to keep residents safe and avoid dangerous events.
Coastal Storm Program, NOAA Cooperative Institute for Limnology and Ecosystems Research NSF-Ocean Science Office of Naval Research UW-Madison/UW-Milwaukee Intercampus Research Incentive Grants Program University of Wisconsin Sea Grant Institute, NOAA Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation Wisconsin Coastal Management Program - Freak waves in Apostle Islands Wisconsin Hilldale Faculty/Undergraduate Research Fellowships Status : Active Student Investigators: Adam Bechle (post-doc), Josh Anderson (post-doc), Alvaro Linares (PhD), Yuli Liu (PhD), Michael Meyer (MS), Chen Jin (MS) Graduated: Josh Anderson (PhD), Adam Bechle (PhD), Alex Campbell (MS), Jay Young (PhD), Doo-Yong Choi (PhD), Henry Yuan (PhD), Aifeng Yao (Ph.D.), Adam m Bechle (MS), Justin Wanek (MS), Chris Petykowski (MS) Collaborators: Dr. Eric Anderson, NOAA, Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory Dr. David Kristovich, Prairie Research Institute, Illinois State Water Survey Dr. Alexander B. Rabinovich, P.P. Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences Dr. David Schwab, Graham Sustainability Institute, University of Michigan Dr. Paul Liu, NOAA, Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory Dr. Joseph Zhang, Virginia Institute of Marine Science Openings Publications
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