Calculations
First calculate theoretical wave heights using
JONSWAP Method
For this method need to know fetch (F), wind speed
(U10), and duration (td)
First we calculate F* and t*
F* = (gF)/( U10)^2 where g is gravity
t* = (gtd)/ U10
next we use t* to calculate F*eff
F*eff = (t*/68.8)^(3/2)
If F* < F*eff then the H* can be
calculated as H*=.0016(F*)^.5
If F*eff < F* then H* can be calculated
as H*=.0016(F*eff)^.5
From this wave height can be determined H=(H*)( U10^2)/g
This method is effective to use for the wave
height coming into the harbor.
In order to determine the fetch distances several degrees
of wind direction were grouped together and the fetch distance estimated across
Lake Michigan. Because of the large
amount of data and the fact that it was measured to the closest 5 degrees, this
provided the most efficient and accurate results. The following table shows fetch estimates
based on degree of wind angle.
Wind Angle |
Fetch (m) |
0 to 30 |
120000 |
30 to 60 |
150000 |
60 to 90 |
100000 |
90 to 270 |
0 |
270 to 300 |
200000 |
300 to 330 |
150000 |
330 to 360 |
120000 |
During these calculations an assumption concerning
the duration of the wind needed to be made.
Since data was only available in three hour intervals, it was assumed
that the wind was constant over this duration.
While this is likely not the case, it provides the most reasonable
estimation of the actual wind.
To check the accuracy of these calculation I
checked them against the actual wave data gathered over the same time
period. By comparing these two results I
can determine if any adjustments need to be made to the JONSWAP results.
Additionally, in order to become good surfing
waves, they would ideally break at large heights to allow for the most surfing
action possible.
This is where the use of the bottom data and water
level data come into play. Looking at
the wave heights coming into this area we can see where they are likely to
break and if this will provide for a good surfing environment.